Solid Wood Worktops

Below is a question sent to me that comes up quite often so below is the question and my reply to it.


Firstly I’d like to say thanks for the tips and the videos. They really are great. Also good to hear the local accent (I’m just down the road in Plymouth).

I have had conflicting advice about the solid wood (oak) worktops that I have. I was going to join them using a masons mitre as your video showed but then I realised you were fitting laminate tops.

I have been advised that my worktops should just be butted together with no cut-outs. The instructions that came with the tops just say "butt together" but this could be taken to mean either! I’m a bit confused.

Hope you can advise.

My answer to Mark was as follows:-


Hi Mark.

The wooden worktops can be done with a masons mitre but why bother and it does not look as good.
Just go with a straightforward butt joint.

I always run the router cutter along the edge of the female joint, just a millimetre or so. Take of just enough to clean up the edge to ensure a nice, flat, clean edge to join to.

Imagine your wooden worktop is a laminate worktop in regards to which way to machine the joint so that when cutting the female side of the joint the jig is usually on top the worktop when you are working around from the left and the jig is on the underneath of the worktop when cutting the male cut.

You can still use silicone on the joint but I would strongly advise you to use glue called Cascamite, some call it one shot. This is a urea type of resin glue, which will have a better chance of withstanding the stresses and movement of solid worktops.
I hope this helps. If you need any more info please feel free to get back to me.

Kind regards,
Ray Brock


Ray Brock
"The Seasoned Kitchen Fitter"
Probably The Internet’s No.1 Kitchen Fitting Expert.

P.S. Look out for my "Fit That Kitchen
Like A Pro" Guide and "How To"
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  1. Dan
    January 27th, 2012 at 09:32 | #1

    Hi Ray,
    What is the best way to router round edges on a solid wood island worktop? I have a jig which will round of a corner but maybe not to the extent that I would like to round it. Is there a simple way to decide how much of an arc I would like to have and then set up a guide to run the router on?
    Dan Dowding

  2. Paul
    February 27th, 2012 at 14:00 | #2

    Hi Ray,
    Great site – been a massive help.
    I have a quick question for you… I have been told by my kitchen fitter that 45 degree cuts with the solid oak worktops will look best with the turns, however, looking at the website of the company who supplied the worktops they do not recommend 45 degree joins because of the chance of the wood splitting? Is it ok to do 45 degree joins or shall I just stick with standard butt Joins?


  3. admin
    March 19th, 2012 at 10:01 | #3

    Hi Paul,

    It is a matter of personal preferance, if you want to mitre the corner or
    butt them. If you mitre them then the strips will need to line up where
    they meet on the mitre or that may look odd. Also the mitred joint is longer
    and you would have a hard job bolting the joint together neatly at the internal corner.

    I have never mitred a corner, or been asked to, and think a butt joint is
    perfectly acceptable, but thats just my opinion :-))

    Ray Brock

  4. admin
    March 19th, 2012 at 10:19 | #4

    Hi Dan,

    Thank you for your question! The best way I find to router a corner is to place various circular objects
    onto the corner until you find one you like the look off. Next measure the diameter and half it to give
    you the radius. Then take away 8.5 mm, which is the difference between the guide collar on the router and
    the cutter.

    Using a pair of compasses draw the a radius onto the corner of a piece of mdf or similar, and then carefully
    cut the radius. Bare in mind the router will be following this edge so make sure it is a smooth curve.

    Now place the jig onto the work top, 8.5 mm from both edges and clamp in place. Try the router on the jig,
    with the power off, to make sure the cutter is aligned with the edges properly and when you are happy, then
    machine the corner.

    Ray Brock

    April 8th, 2013 at 21:48 | #5

    The main reason for not using a mitred joint on wooden worktops is because any movement, specifically shrinkage, will show instantly at the front of the joint, you only need each side to shrink by 1mm to get a 2mm gap!

  6. May 9th, 2013 at 10:35 | #6

    This is a great site and all of the information is really useful.  Thanks for clearing up a query that (I\'m sure) a few others have needed a simple, concise answer to.

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