Radius End To Breakfast Bar

November 16th, 2009 Leave a comment Go to comments

Below is a post on a popular forum for kitchen fitters and my reply to it.

Has anyone got any advice for a way of cutting a curve onto the end of a breakfast bar without breaking out and splintering the profiled end?

Its not a problem for a normal 600mm work top because you can flip the work top over to get it so you cut into the profiled edge first.

I’ve done a fair few work tops before but i’ve never had to do a double ended breakfast bar and don’t want to make a pigs ear of it.

Thanks
Carl  
 

I always use the trammel method on my router.

Mark a line down the centre of the breakfast bar(all marking out done on masking tape). Then workout where the curve starts and ends and Draw a line across the worktop to join these two marks.

where this line crosses the centre line measure towards the end of the worktop how much curve ie 150 m/m is needed.

From that point draw a line to the start and end marks. Bisect these two lines and with a roofing square on the bisected point draw a 90 degree line towards the centre line and where the lines cross is the pivot point of the trammel bar.

Router three quarters of the way around ( do a shallow cut and jigsaw away the waste ) and then turn the worktop over and reset the trammel and finish off.

With this method no jigs need to be made and you can do any curve. I have only given a brief outline here as it would take too much space to give a bit by bit explanation but it is easier in practice than it may sound here.

This is only a brief outline. A full explanation can be read in my "Fit That Kitchen Like A Pro" guide and seen on the accompanying DVD’S.
 

Ray Brock
"The Seasoned Kitchen Fitter"

P.S. Look out for my "Fit That Kitchen
Like A Pro" Guide and "How To"
Worktop Instructional Videos
 
Click the link opposite

The Only Complete Guide You Will
Ever Need To Fit That Kitchen

 

  1. Raymond kibble
    February 22nd, 2010 at 18:56 | #1

    Hi Ray
    Good DVD witch I received her is my first question, when placing the work top on to the base units, do you scribe the back of work top so it fits to the back of the wall to get the 30mm over hang to the front of the units. When you bye a jig it has pegs set at 600 615 700 and so on, is this why you lay male work top on to the female and tape the edge it looks like you don’t use these pegs and just use the line on the female top but you do use straight edge pegs

    From Ray Kibble

  2. admin
    February 22nd, 2010 at 21:44 | #2

    Hi Ray,
    Thank you for your kind comment.

    The worktops need to overhang 570 mm deep base units by 30 mm or 560 mm deepbase units by 40 mm.

    Depending on the straightness of the walls and how the base units are fitted will depend on whether the worktops will need to be scribed back.

    If after the worktops have been put in place and pushed back to the wall they overhang the base units by more than the amount mentioned above then the front of the worktop needs to be made parallel to the base unit front rails and the surplace scribed of as described in my handbook that accompanies the DVD’s.

    I do not use the width of worktop pegs, the ones at 600 615 and 700 because as you pointed out I lay the male worktop onto the female one and the starting point is where they cross over. This way there is no chance of making a mistake.

    I only use the pegs that rest against the postform edge to give accurate positioning for the joint.

    I hope this answers your questions. If you have any queries please do not hesitate to email me.

    Kind Regards.

    Ray Brock

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