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Belfast Or Butler Sinks

January 28th, 2010 Leave a comment Go to comments

Below is a question I received by email from one of my customers called Paul.

Paul has kindly agreed to allow me to put this on this site as I think many others will
gain from reading this and I hope that you will also.

Hi Ray,
Thanks for the great tips included in your DVD. Excellent!

I am about to fit a Butlers Sink for the fist time. I have cut the solid wood worktop and finished the edges etc.
Now I need to support the sink which is very heavy! It is fitting inside a 600 mmm melamine faced chipboard
carcase what is the best way to support it?

Can I just place it on a shelf? I need to check the plumbing for leaks before I fit the sink. So I thought that I would sit it on top of a couple of packing pieces. This will allow me to fit the worktop and plumb in the taps, check for leaks (the tap connections are at the back of the fitted sink), then I can slide the sink in from the front and attach the waste. I can then fit a cover strip to hide the shelf and packers when viewed from the front.

Hope you can help
 Regards Paul

Hi Paul,

Thank you for your email and kind comments. I am always happy to receive feedback
so that I know what my customers want and what to include in future products.

Often the sink unit provided is designed for a Belfast or butler sink and they sit on top
of sides of the unit but you say it fits inside a 600mm unit which is unusual as they are
often 600mm or 610mm wide. From what you say I would suggest screwing wood to
the sides to take the weight. A couple beads of silicone on the back of the wood will
help glue the wood to the sides as well

As you say you can fit a cover strip along the front to hide the wood, if you felt it was
unsightly, or do a neat finish on the wood to make a feature of it
.
It is a common problem to connect the hot and cold because the connection is always
behind the sink. If the tails of the taps are copper then these can have extra copper pipe
soldered on so that they can be joined below the level of the bottom of the sink. If the tails
of the taps are stainless steel braid with a compression fitting then you have no choice but
to do as you suggest and connect up the hot and cold before fitting the sink.
Once the hot and cold plumbing is ok then as you say the sink can be slid in place and
the waste connected.

When the sink is in place silicone between the top of the sink and the underneath of the
worktop. this will stop water running underneath the worktops and also hold the sink in
position. You may find the sink has been cast slightly out of shape and it may rock
when in place. this is not unusual and will need a little discreet packer to stop it.
I hope this helps. If you need further clarification on this or any other issue please
don’t hesitate in emailing me back.
If you don’t mind I would like to put this on my blog to help others.

Kind regards,

Ray Brock.

Thanks for the super quick response Ray!
I am doing a refurb of an existing kitchen that involves new wooden work tops / sink / cooker and wall finish.
You are right the sink is 595 mm wide and I will have to cut down the sides of the unit. However, I can screw the remaining side parts to the adjacent units and use a wide batten to cover the cut edge say 2 X 2 par softwood.
I will need to pull the unit out to make the mods. and then refit it. but at least I can get to the plumbing!
Thanks for your help.

Regards Paul
 

Ray Brock
"The Seasoned Kitchen Fitter"
Probably The Internet’s No.1 Kitchen Fitting Expert.

P.S. Look out for my "Fit That Kitchen
Like A Pro" Guide and "How To"
Worktop Instructional Videos
 
Click the link opposite ==>>

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Ever Need To Fit That Kitchen  

 

 

 

 

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